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Since my wife and I had never spent much time in the High Sierras of Northern California, we decided to visit the area where California's gold rush began.
Sightseeing in Nevada City was one of several pleasant afternoons spent
roaming in the High Sierras. While many California gold rush towns have
disappeared into the pages of history, Nevada City is considered to be
among the best preserved towns in the West; its historic district is
listed in the National Register of Historic Places.
Resort at Squaw Creek
Your first stop should be at the Chamber of Commerce to pick up a walking tour brochure. Nevada City developed along the banks of Deer Creek in 1849. Civic leaders named the town Nevada, which is Spanish for "snow-covered." The town's name was later changed to Nevada City after its identity was usurped by the state. President Herbert Hoover lived and worked there as a gold miner in his younger days. In 1853, Professor Henry Durant, formerly of Yale University, met with a committee in Nevada City to formulate plans for an academy that was incorporated two years later as the College of California. Today it is known as the University of California, Berkeley.
Our next stop was Coloma. It was on the south fork of the American River in 1848 that John Marshall found flecks of gold at the mill that he was building for himself and John Sutter. This discovery changed the course of California history and initiated the California Gold Rush, leading to the greatest mass movement of people in the Western Hemisphere and igniting the unparalleled growth of the west. The Marshall Gold Discovery State Park in Coloma has a museum, a replica of the sawmill and a number of original buildings. The monument and statue placed above Marshall's gravesite is California's first historic landmark.
Lake Tahoe, Photo Courtesy of Gretchen Sproehnle
Throughout the year, there are special events, sawmill demonstrations, exhibits, educational programs, and "Live History Days." Coloma is also a great place to observe wildlife. Black-tailed deer are plentiful in the park and are often seen grazing in the old orchards and meadows.
We stayed at the delightful Coloma Country Inn, a B&B. Built in
1852, this charming country farmhouse is located on five private acres
in the middle of the 300 acre Marshall Gold Discovery State Park. The
main house has four guestrooms, each individually decorated and
featuring turn-of-the-century antiques, handmade quilts, and fresh
flowers. There is also a carriage house, built in 1898, that can
accommodate up to four people. The half acre pond and grounds behind
the inn present a perfect spot to bird watch. It is home to mallards,
wood ducks, redwing blackbirds, and the belted kingfisher, as well as a
favorite nesting spot for the rare green heron and the great blue
heron. Mature fruit trees dot the property. It is also a great place to
pick blackberries in season. We loved sitting on the patio overlooking
the pond or reading and relaxing on the rocking chairs on the
wraparound porch. The sumptuous country breakfasts feature homemade
baked goods, jams, preserves and seasonal fruits. Throughout the day,
freshly made cookies are out on a platter for guests.
On one of our side trips from Coloma we discovered that the rolling
hills immediately east of Coloma are home to over 20 small family owned
wineries, members of the El Dorado Winery Association. We stopped at
the Venezio Vineyard and Winery, tasted wines and purchased their award
winning Venezio Port which took a Gold Medal in the 2003 Orange County
Fair wine competition.
Our final destination was the Resort at Squaw Creek. This full
service, 4-diamond luxury hotel was recently ranked among the top 50
best resorts in North America by Conde Nast Travel Magazine. Views from
the spacious rooms include ponderosa forests and pristine meadowlands,
all with mountain backdrops. The spa features a wide variety of
massages, body treatments and therapies. My wife and I enjoyed the
Tahoe hot stone and Swedish massages. The atmosphere is calming and
the staff first rate. The resort also offers the full array of sports
venues and resort services that one would expect at a spot like this.
We made two side trips during our stay. It is a short drive to Truckee
and North Lake Tahoe. Truckee is probably most famous for the Donner
Party incident. This fascinating story is retold at the Donner Memorial
State Park; make sure you visit. The Truckee Chamber of Commerce
sponsors a visitor center, located in the train depot which was built
in 1896. Stop there for an informative self guided walking tour map.
The turn of the century main street provides an eclectic array of
shops, restaurants and boutiques. Plan to spend a full day at the
state park, on the walking tour and in town.
The next day, we picked up sandwiches, fruit and drinks and headed to
North Lake Tahoe for a half day of hiking at the 2000 acre Burton Creek
State Park. After our morning hike we headed to the Tahoe State
Recreation Area, located on the shore of beautiful Lake Tahoe. We
picnicked and enjoyed a glorious afternoon relaxing on the beach.
Restaurants of Note
PlumpJack Café is in Squaw Valley and features modern American cuisine in an upscale, sophisticated but comfortable contemporary setting.
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The menu is centered around seasonal ingredients and changes frequently to reflect the freshest produce, meats and seafood available. We had dinner at PlumpJack
Historic Depot in Truckee, CA
and it was marvelous. Our starters included golden gazpacho and figs stuffed with blue cheese and bacon dressed in a sherry fennel vinaigrette. The first course was accompanied by wonderful home made wheat and olive bread. Our main course was cioppino and a roasted "hin of the woods." Both were wonderful and the hin, an unusual mushroom, was a particularly interesting and flavorful dish. All desserts are homemade. This place is worth a special trip. The wait staff, as one would suspect in a restaurant of this quality, was attentive and knowledgeable.
In Old Town Truckee, try Dragonfly. The menu is an eclectic blend of
Thai, Japanese, Indian and Malaysian influences, all of which combine
to create unusual flavors and a unique menu. Lunch choices include
large salads, dragon bowls (one pot meals) and an interesting array of
sandwiches. This is a fun, casual place to eat.
Nevada City, CA
The River Ranch is a landmark restaurant and lodge nestled on the banks of the beautiful Truckee River, featuring California continental cuisine with creatively prepared fresh seafood, steaks and many unique specialty items. The night my wife and I were there, we started with a salad topped by a grilled fresh fruit medley on a mix of spring greens with toasted almonds, feta cheese and a homemade dressing. The basket of sourdough bread was excellent. The entrees were outstanding; hazelnut encrusted ono and stuffed pork loin with a pomegranate port wine glaze. Save room for dessert. We shared an outstanding chocolate truffle cake with vanilla bean ice cream and raspberry sauce. Special note: Ask for a table by the window overlooking the Truckee River; it is a spectacular setting.
Travel Information
Nevada City information is available at www.nevadacitychamber.com
or
call 1-530-265-2692 or toll free at 1-800-655-NJOY in California and
Nevada. While in town, try the Posh Nosh Restaurant. This charming
bistro has a wonderful patio, imaginative menu selections and moderate
prices. Nevada City is a charming place to leisurely stroll and take
in the sights.
Coloma and Marshall Gold Discovery State Park information can be found
online at www.parks.ca.gov (which includes
all California state parks)
and at the Coloma-Lotus Chamber of Commerce website
www.colomalotus.com.
Coloma Country Inn's rates and information can be found online at
www.colomacountryinn.com or
call 1-530-622-6919. Ask for innkeepers
Kerry and Candie Bliss.
Venezio Vineyard and Winery information can be found on the web at
www.venezio.com.
The El Dorado Winery Association's website is
www.eldoradowines.com.
Truckee offers a wide variety of outdoor sports. In the winter there
is skiing, snow boarding, snowmobiling, snowshoeing and back country
skiing and trekking. After the snow melts, outdoor lake and river
enthusiasts can enjoy boating, windsurfing, water skiing, kayaking,
swimming and fishing. Non - aquatic activities include golf, hiking,
camping, horseback riding, rock climbing and many historical places to
visit. Email or call for the Truckee Visitor Guide from the Chamber of
Commerce. The toll free number is 1-866-443-2027 or go online at
www.truckee.com.
The Resort at Squaw Creek offers championship golf, five restaurants, a
shopping arcade, children's camp, three swimming pools, indoor/outdoor
hot tubs and, during the winter season, ice skating and ski-on access
to Squaw Valley, USA. All rooms feature custom furnishings, original
artwork and refrigerators. The full service spa also includes a dry
sauna and salon services. The health club offers an array of fitness
and mind/body classes. The state of the art equipment includes
treadmills, life cycles, stair and circuit training machines. There is
an interesting twist to the hotel rate. An annoying aspect of staying
at some luxury resorts is an automatic resort service fee that is added
for no apparent reason. At the Resort at Squaw Creek there is value to
their surcharge. Items included in the fee are baggage handling, local
and toll calls, safe deposit box, incoming faxes, newspaper, in room
coffee, transportation to/from Tahoe City, use of the health club, golf
or ski storage and recreational activities that include ice skate
rentals and rink access, cross country ski rentals, tennis rackets and
court time, bikes, sleds and croquet and miniature golf equipment. The
resort's website is www.squawcreek.com. There you
can find resort
information including seasonal rates and specials. Or, call toll free
1-800-327-3353.
Lake Tahoe area online information is abundant. Try www.bluetahoe.com
and www.skilaketahoe.com.
Restaurant and menu information regarding
PlumpJack, Dragonfly and River Ranch Lodge can be found online at
www.plumpjack.com,
dragonflycuisine.com and www.riverranchlodge.com.
Writer's Note
Many thanks to the various web sites and organizations mentioned for background information and photos contained in this article.
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