A Trip to the Valley of the Moon
Glen Ellen is located in Sonoma County in Northern California. Like most of California, the area was originally part of a 19th. century Spanish land grant. Successive owners, including one whose wife was named Ellen, added to the holdings. Eventually commerce developed in the form of a grain mill, lumber yard, brickyard and hotel. Next came a post office, vineyard and finally train service from San Francisco in the1880s. Although the name Valley of the Moon is associated with Jack London's novel, in fact the area was originally called that by one of the first missionaries in the region. Native Americans believed that the winter moon rose several times each evening over the mountainous terrain. Sitting outside on a clear night looking at thousands of stars and watching the moon rising from the distant hills, one understands how the belief originated. Today this is wine country and, although not as famous as its neighbor to the east, Napa, vineyards of equal quality are found here.
Glen Ellen's most famous resident, Jack London, lived and wrote there from 1905 until his death in 1916. Several of his short stories and novels, e.g., The Valley of the Moon and The Iron Heel mention both Glen Ellen and Sonoma County. His ranch is now part of the Jack London State Historic Park.
We overnighted at three distinctly different lodging choices in Glen Ellen. Our first stay was at Relais du Soleil, "a place to rest in the sun." This wine country farm house and guest ranch is nestled in Nuns Canyon at the base of the Mayacamas mountain range on 120 acres. There is a whirlpool spa on a deck overlooking a creek, a horse corral, artist studio and home winery, Calabazas Creek. The proprietor, Tim Korn, is a Jack London savant, raconteur, artist, Francophile, chef and wonderful host. His family has been in the area since 1906. In the main building, a turn of the century farmhouse built in 1914, there are two bedrooms, the Lilac Room and French Quarter which share a bath. The Bunkhouse, added in 1960, features a three bedroom suite with full kitchen and bath. Tim refers to his place as a "wine country guest ranch." The living room with its cheery fireplace is a great location to sit and read. The most fun is Tim's afternoon wine and cheese tasting held in the art studio. Brian Tedrick's whimsical wood and metal sculptures hang on the walls and from the ceiling adding to the eclectic flavor of this charming spot. The tasting is enhanced by Tim's musings on life, art and wine making. Weather permitting, homemade breakfasts are served on the charming patio.
The Meadow at Relais du Soleil
On our first day we hiked at the Jack London State Historic Park, located just outside the village center. The 800+ acre park is a memorial to the writer and adventurer. The park's upper parking lot provides access to a picnic area, the cottage where London wrote, stables, stone barns, silos, a museum and the building for his pigs that his neighbors derisively named the "Pig Palace." We walked ¾ mile past a dam and a lake to the bathhouse built by London. Hikers will be delighted with the meandering trails through meadows and past streams. The forests are made up of oak, Douglas fir and redwoods and also feature a series of trails. Other hikes lead to views of the Valley of the Moon, Jack London's grave and the remnants of London's dream home, Wolf House, which was destroyed by fire in 1913.
Lake at Jack London State Park
The next day we were off to the highly regarded family owned Benziger Winery located in the town of Glen Ellen. The unusual terrain, formed by volcanic explosions from the Sonoma Mountain some two million years ago, is ideal for wine growing as it provides a variety of sun exposures, elevations, soil profiles and drainage. The property, which resembles a 360-degree bowl, is planted with 42 acres of wine grapes. They produce 10,000 cases of quality estate wines a year. There is a 45 minute guided tram ride that takes visitors through vineyards, gardens and a wildlife sanctuary for an overview of the operation. The tour also includes a visit to the underground estate caves and a wine tasting.
The Benzinger Winery Caves
For our evening meal we went to the Glen Ellen Village Market. There we found a broad range of prepared gourmet foods, locally grown fruits and vegetables, an extensive wine section and desserts made on the premises. The deli counter prepares gourmet sandwiches, side dishes and salads. The menu features a broad range of choices. Everything from breakfast muffins, freshly baked breads, croissants and scones, superb box lunches, party trays, gourmet hors d'oeuvres and dinners are available. It's epicurean food at reasonable supermarket prices.
Our next stopover was at the Glennelly Inn, an historic and traditional bed & breakfast built in 1916. This charmer offers six guest rooms, two suites and two new garden cottages, all with private baths. They are furnished with antique furnishings, country touches, good reading lights and great beds with Norwegian down comforters. All have private entrances opening onto verandas or decks. Each morning a gourmet breakfast including freshly squeezed orange juice, quiche, muffins, granola, fresh fruit and a main dish is served family style in the "common room." Homemade cookies and hot or cold beverages are available throughout during the day.
The Glennelly Inn
Discovering offbeat places and restaurants is always high on our travel agenda. The next day we hit the jackpot. Our first stop was Oak Hill Farm and their Red Barn Store. The farm has been growing flowers and produce, using sustainable agricultural practices, for more than 50 years. Today more than 200 varieties of flowers, shrubs, orchard fruit, herbs, field grown fruits and heirloom vegetables are grown. Everything edible from apples to zucchini and flowers from agrostemma to zinnia, are grown at this remarkable place. Interestingly, only 45 acres of their 700 acres are farmed.
Oak Hill Farm
We had lunch at a local favorite, Babe's in Shellville. This is a classic hamburger joint with a walk up counter and no pretensions; just good burgers, fries and shakes. After we ate, we were off to the quirky and innovative Cornerstone Festival of Gardens. One takes a delightful walk through nine acres of garden exhibits from 15 world famous landscape architects and designers. It strives to bring garden design to the level of an art form and succeeds splendidly. It is a living, ever changing art exhibit; unusual, entertaining and informative. This is a playground for kids and adults alike and is worth a special stop.
The Blue Tree at Cornerstone Gardens
Back in Glen Ellen we checked into the Jack London Lodge. Located the middle of town, it is situated on the tree lined Sonoma Creek. It features large rooms, a delightful patio and pool area, the Wolf House Restaurant and the historic Jack London saloon. An extensive continental buffet breakfast is included June through September and on weekends in May and October. The accommodations are comfortable and a good value.
Jack London Lodge
Dinner that night was at the Glen Ellen Inn. Its California fusion cuisine and award winning wines are served in an elegant, yet casual indoor dining room. If possible, sit outside on the patio near their Koi pond and organic herb garden. The husband and wife team, Karen and Chef Christian Bertrand, pay close loving attention to the food and service. The result is a marvelous experience. For our dinner we started with figs in a blanket (yes, figs) and seafood bisque. This was followed by a poached pear, spinach and arugula salad that our server gladly split for us. We proceeded with our entrees, Cabernet braised Sonoma lamb shank and a grilled pork tenderloin with a smoked chipolte, mango and papaya salsa. Leave room for dessert. We ordered their signature Glen Ellen sundae featuring vanilla ice cream, toasted coconut and bittersweet caramel sauce and also shared a Granny Smith apple tart topped with ginger cookie dough ice cream. It was an outstanding dining experience.
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On our last day, we headed to "downtown" Glen Ellen and The Olive Press. I've been to a wine tasting but never an olive oil tasting. We were in for an informative treat. The Olive Press was formed by a group of devoted California olive growers who were inspired by the cooperatives of Italy and Southern France. It is a unique facility designed to meet the custom pressing needs of commercial producers, growers with small harvests and hobbyists wishing to create "estate" olive oil from their home grown olives. A December 2004 AP story by Eric Risberg, states that "today 125 certified producers in California make more than 400,000 gallons of olive oil a year." He continues, "California makes 99% of all extra virgin olive oil produced in the United States." Neighboring growers bring 250 tons of olives to the Olive Press. From this, 6,000 gallons of olive oil are produced. The smallest "order" they will accept is 800 pounds. Twenty different types of olives are pressed and some varieties can be blended. Green olives make up the early harvest and Mission olives are the late crop. Everything is pressed within 24 hours of delivery and the final product is aged and ready to be bottled in 30 to 60 days. Once a year, usually in November or December, the Olive Press holds a festive Community Press Day for the general public to bring in their olives. The tasting bar is quite a learning experience. Like wines, olive oils are categorized. You sip several varieties of olive oil; no bread to dip, just straight from a tiny tumbler. Afficionados look for three separate characteristics during a tasting. Fruitiness in the aroma, bitterness experienced on the back of your tongue and, finally, pungency, a peppery feeling in your throat when swallowed. When we tasted the selections, we could differentiate between these three positive attributes. We left for home with several bottles of olive oil and a much greater appreciation for olives.
Olive Press Machinery
Wrap Up:
Glen Ellen covers approximately 10 square miles and its population is slightly over 1,000 people. It is about an hour and a half drive from either the San Francisco or Oakland airports. It is a stand alone destination worth your consideration.
Thanks to the following hosts, background sources and various websites for information.
Places to Stay:
Relais du Soleil,
1210 Nuns Canyon Rd.
Glen Ellen, CA 95442
phone: 707-833-6264
www.relaisdusoleil.com
Tim Korn, Proprietor, takes good care of his guests. Bring your favorite Jack London book to discuss with Tim. Suggestion: stay here with friends and take over the entire place.
Glenelly Inn,
5131 Warm Springs Road
Glen Ellen, CA 95442
Phone: 707-996-6720
www.glenelly.com
Kristi Hallamore Jeppesen is the Owner/Innkeeper. They offer on-site spa and massage services, specials and packages. It is family friendly with designated "kid zone" accommodations. A division of Glenelly Inn, Glenelly Properties, rents wine country vacation homes.
Jack London Lodge
13740 Arnold Drive
Glen Ellen, CA 95442-9998
707- 938-8510
www.jacklondonlodge.com
Jack London Lodge has 22 large rooms all individually furnished with antiques and either a king or two queen size beds, cable TV, refrigerator, iron and ironing board, in room coffee and a hair dryer. For those looking for hotel type accommodations, this is a good choice and value.
The Glen Ellen Inn
13670 Arnold Drive
Glen Ellen, CA 95442
cottage reservations 707-996-1174.
www.glenelleninn.com.
Not only do they have a great restaurant, but also six luxurious cottages. We were able to take a peek at them after dinner. They are painted in serene earth colors and feature fireplaces, steamer showers, TV, VCR's, a sitting deck aside a gurgling creek and some have two person Jacuzzi tubs. The cottages are hidden gems.
Things to Do:
Jack London State Park
2400 London Ranch Road
Glen Ellen, CA 95442
707-938-5216
www.parks.sonoma.net/JLPark
Plan to hike and picnic. Bicycling and horseback riding are permitted on some trails. Camping is available at nearby Sugarloaf Ridge State Park. Contact Sonoma County Regional Parks Department for a map and area guide. 707-565-2041
Cactus Garden at Jack London State park
Cornerstone Gardens
23570 Highway 121
Sonoma, CA 95476
707-933-3010
www.cornerstonegardens.com
This is a fascinating and wondrous place where imagination takes wing. While there, take time to browse in their garden center, gift shop and bookstore, and the artifact design and salvage shop.
Cornerstone Gardens
Benziger Family Winery
1883 London Ranch Road
Glen Ellen, CA 95442
888-490-2739
www.benziger.com.
Wines are grown "biodynamically" and everything left over is composted and/or recycled. The tram tour is well worth the $10 charge; it also includes a wine tasting. Visit their gift shop. You can pack a lunch and enjoy their redwood grove picnic area. Join their mailing list to receive news, updates, special invitations to wine events or to order online.
The Benzinger Vineyard
The Olive Press
14301 Arnold Drive
Glen Ellen, CA 95442
707-939-3711
www.theolivepress.com
They sell many varieties of olive oil along with vinegars, assorted jars of tapenades, preserved lemons and cured olives. They also offer a wide selection of olive themed ceramics, baskets, books, table linens and olive oil storage containers. You can order from their online store.
The Olive Press
The Glen Ellen Historical Society can be found online at www.glenellen.org/historical
The Sonoma Valley Visitors Bureau produces an 80 page color Visitors Guide to Sonoma Valley. Call 707-996-1090 for a free copy or go online at www.sonomavalley.com.
Places to Eat
Glen Ellen Inn
13670 Arnold Drive
Glen Ellen, CA 95442
restaurant reservations 707-996-6409
www.glenelleninn.com
Great setting, excellent service and wonderful ambiance. Enough said; go!
Glenn Ellen Village Market
13751 Arnold Drive
Glenn Ellen, CA 95442
707- 996-6728
Stop by for breakfast, lunch or dinner. Eat there at their picnic tables or order carry out.
The Glen Ellen Market
Oak Hills Farm
Red Barn Store at Oak Hill Farm
15101 State 12
Glen Ellen, CA 95442
707- 996-6643)
www.oakhillfarm.net
Pick up fresh fruits and vegetables for snacking and buy flowers to make your traveling companion very happy. Oak Hill Farm is a registered organic farm.
Oak Hill Farm
Babes
Highway 12
Shellville, CA 94576
707-938-9714
Babes features old fashioned, hand formed burgers, freshly made fries and milkshakes in a joint that one dreams of finding. Three generations of women make this place a local favorite. Call for directions.
Fig Café & Wine Bar
13690 Arnold Drive
PO BOX 1433
Glen Ellen, CA 95442
707-938-2130
Although we didn't eat there this trip, it is a favorite of ours.
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