North of Lisbon lies the picturesque Busaco Palace. This magnificent castle is a pleasant two hour train journey from Lisbon; as magical as Disneyland, only authentic! The Busaco Palace was first built at the end of the 19th century as a hunting lodge and summer residence for Carlos I, the last king of Portugal. Since 1917, the Almeida family has managed and maintained this grande dame, one of the most interesting and historical hotels in all of Portugal. The palace is a live-in art gallery with museum quality rare tapestries, master paintings, and objects d'art by famous Portuguese artists decorating this unique and wonderful hotel. Azulejos, painted blue-tiled panels, depicting scenes from Luis Vaz de Camoes' Os Lusiads, a 16th century epic poem recounting events and legends from Portuguese history, are displayed along vaulted arches and marble staircases.
The Palace is surrounded by a 250+ acre forest and several formal gardens, incorporating at least 400 indigenous and 300 exotic species of native and exotic plants, trees, and flowers. The pastoral grounds provide wonderful walking and hiking opportunities. Maps, provided by the concierge, feature several trails, quaintly referred to as "pedestrian circuits." Three botanical walks and three historical walks range in length from one to three hours and are, for the most part, well marked and not too strenuous. Included in the pedestrian circuits are a species list of the flora and fauna, plus a brief historical overview. The Bishops of Coimbra tended this area beginning in 1094 and it is still meticulously maintained!
In the early afternoon of our first day, we walked to the Vale de Fetos (Valley of Ferns), lined with luxuriant plant and flower specimens collected worldwide. We then hiked down the 161 steps of the Fonte Fria which parallels a dramatic water cascade tumbling down to a natural pool. The whole walk took about one and a half hours round trip and was breathtaking. In the mood for more hiking, we then trekked to Cruz Alta, the forest's highest point featuring a sweeping panorama of the countryside. A sense of history surrounds the entire area; Wellington’s troops fought Napoleon’s forces at the Battle of Busaco in 1810 in the very forest we roamed.
The Town of Luso
The next day we went into the delightful and charming town of Luso. It was a leisurely 20 minute, downhill stroll into Luso from the Palace. It was slightly foggy in the morning and that added to the beauty and mystical quality of our surroundings. We were pleased to discover that it was market day. Laid out in dozens of booths in the central square were local handicrafts, unusual breads, candies, and local fruits, food and cheeses. We purchased painted ceramic dishes to bring home as gifts. After our shopping spree, we visited the world famous Termas de Luso Spa whose thermal waters are said to have healing powers for a wide range of ailments. The spa offers a full range of programs and packages, from day use to extended stays.
In Luso, we joined locals and tourists at the Fonte de Sao Joao. Here, in the town’s main square, we saw young people, old women, hefty men, and small children all filling their vessels at the public fountain. People with all conceivable sizes and shapes of containers fill them with free spring mineral water. It is an unforgettable travel memory of our visit to Portugal. Later we had lunch at the O Cesteiro restaurant recommended by Eyewitness Travel Guides Portugal where we had a wonderful meal accompanied with local wine. (There are certain meals that go best with wine, not spring water!) After lunch we took a short $6 taxi ride back (uphill) to the Busaco Palace.
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The Busaco Palace
The 66 guest rooms at the Busaco Palace range from small and well-furnished, to lavish suites with sweeping views of the grounds. Experiencing local cuisines is a big part of any vacation. The hotel breakfast, included in the rate, features a wide array of cheeses, fresh fruits, yogurt, meats, breads, rolls, hot and cold cereals, and eggs, all served buffet style in the grand, chandeliered dining room. Dinner is served either in the elegant dining room, which exudes old world charm, or on the terrace overlooking the gardens. Dining is just that, dining. The setting is superb, the surroundings romantic, and the staff is attentive. The food is classically European with rich overtones of Portuguese cuisine. The three course dinner ($35 US per person) starts with a choice of four soups. There is a selection of fourteen entrees, ranging from the omnipresent salt cod to rabbit, quail, beef, lamb and even pasta. A salad trolley rounds out the meal and the price also includes dessert. The chateau bottled Busaco wines are a specialty not to be missed.
Rates are seasonal, but prices range from 24,000 PTE (Escuda) for a standard room during the off season to 34,000 PTE (Escuda) for a double in season. Meal plans are available. The conversion rate is approximately 225 PTE (Escuda) to the US dollar.
The Region
Because of its central location, the Busaco Palace serves as a perfect base for exploring. Although we ran out of time, it would have been easy to reach both Coimbra and Obidos on day trips. The Palace is situated in the southeast corner of the Bairrada wine region, one of the oldest wine producing areas in Portugal. It is easy to visit many of the 23 vineyards and cooperatives that are within a few hours drive.
For More information About Portugal
Portuguese National Tourist Office: 1-800-767-8842
www.small-hotel.com/busaco
http://www.portugal-insite.pt
www.portugal.org
www.portuguesewine.com
Eyewitness Travel Guides Portugal www.dk.com
Michelin’s Hotels & Restaurants of Portugal www.michelin-travel.com
For currency conversion rates www.travel-finder.com
Best of the West and Travel Tips
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Next up: A Pousada in the Alentejo and colorful Oporto.
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